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Re: Astra mk3 Arctic 1.6 8v to 3.0 24v build
Belongs on a good thick plywood workbench!
Belongs on a good thick plywood workbench!
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Forget this update from last Tuesday, oops.
Started on the underside painting over the existing under-seal which is in tip top condition. Using bitumen that I used on my GTE and got the rear end done before the first BTCC race at Rockingham on Sunday.
Next job was to remove the fuel flap locking motor as it’s not required as the aero cap has its own lock.
Then it was back underneath to complete the main floorpan painting. I cheated and decided not to remove the exhaust heat shields as the studs didn’t look their best and would probably have snapped off.
Last night I removed both front struts so I could paint the arches but didn’t get time to finish the job. Both arches in reasonably good condition.
Steering arms removed so I can replace the TRE with new.
Brand new wishbones that were on the car so I could move it from the storage unit removed so I can replace the nasty rubber bushes…
…with these
Anyway the reason for not painting the front arches last night is this bleeder. The front n/s subframe bolt started spinning when I was attempting to remove it so the subframe is stuck in position for the time being. The plan is to strip the front end, cut into the x-member and weld the bloomin captive nut which has made a break for freedom…weekend job.
Last edited by Harvey; 27-09-2017, 01:59 PM.Comment
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Re: Astra mk3 Arctic 1.6 8v to 3.0 24v build
Nice work HarveyComment
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Re: Astra mk3 Arctic 1.6 8v to 3.0 24v build
Well done Harvey. Looking good. Shame about that captive nut.Comment
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Re: Astra mk3 Arctic 1.6 8v to 3.0 24v build
I won't mention that I might need to helicoil the rear wishbone chassis fixings and weld a new captive nut in the front wishbone mount in the subframe
More on that once I get the subframe removed at the weekend.
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Decided as the mk3 will be running a heavy 3.0 V6 and a heavy F28 to do things properly and ordered a pair of front Cavalier/Calibra V6 front Eibach Pro springs. Huge thanks to Steve Crook at LMF for yet more great service.
Compared to an Eibach Pro 2.0 spring on the right V6 on the left.
This morning the mk3 started like this.
Then after removing various parts I had this.
Purpose for stripping the front end was to remove the stuck subframe.
I was then able to get to the captive nut. You can see the rusty bolt sticking out the top of the nut, if you can’t just squint.
I then got the Dermal out and did some slice and dicing.
Then I was able to open the door and see the cage than holds the captive nut.
More Dermal action and the nut cage was removed and the area round the nut cleaned for welding.
Bit of crappy welding and the nut wasn’t going to be spinning anymore.
The bolt then easily just unscrewed without any drama, meaning the subframe could be removed.
I then closed the door, did some more bird poo welding, flap disking and a final top coat of dark green Hammerite and jobs a good’un.
On another good note I had mixed up front (M12 x 1.75) and rear (M12 x 1.50) wishbone bolts on the drivers side a number of years ago. With careful and slow work using some thread chasers (not taps) I was able to restore the correct thread pitch for front and rear and test torque the proper bolts to the correct settings. That saved me a Helicoil job and load of hassle.Last edited by Harvey; 27-09-2017, 02:01 PM.Comment
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Bush remover in place and ready for work. Finally got the vice mounted on the bench as well.
Bit of righty tighty and out it popped.
Be off with you standard bush, in the bin you go.
Then I sorted the TRE, No before pics but I can tell you now the adjuster didn’t want to let go but I didn’t give in and it’s now silky smooth with loads of grease and new TRE.
New poly bushes going in.
Nearly there
Pop, in it goes.
Then the centre metal insert goes in.
Done and dusted.
Last edited by Harvey; 27-09-2017, 02:02 PM.Comment
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This evening mission was to attack this and get the rear wishbone bush removed.
So after much hitting with a punch and hammer out it popped.
Standard versa poly goodness.
After a liberal application of copper grease and careful alignment in the vice it began slipping into place.
Then it was in with a final few hits with the hammer.
All done and poly bushed up ready for when the subframe has had an overhaul and some fresh paint applied.
Last edited by Harvey; 27-09-2017, 02:03 PM.Comment
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Re: Astra mk3 Arctic 1.6 8v to 3.0 24v build
Looking great. That's gonna firm up the handling.Comment
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Subframe wire brushed and ready for painting.
First coat of Hammerite applied and left to dry over night.
Last edited by Harvey; 27-09-2017, 02:04 PM.Comment
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Removed the Astra mk4 side skirts and found the sills in tit top condition so all good. Old skirts will be going in the bin as we bought some nice subtle replacements a few years ago from LMF, pictures when I dig them out of storage.
I then set about making up the front to rear brake pipes using the originals as templates. Took a bit of doing but I’m pleased as they look OE fitment.
Last edited by Harvey; 27-09-2017, 02:05 PM.Comment
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Dug out the fuel tank last night and prepped it for fitting.
Then bolted it on. I’ve got the filler cap to mess with so haven’t properly fitting the filler neck for the time being.
Old 16mm front ARB compared with 20mm replacement. On the lookout for a series 2 GSi 24mm if anyone can help.
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Re: Astra mk3 Arctic 1.6 8v to 3.0 24v build
That would be 22mm....
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Re: Astra mk3 Arctic 1.6 8v to 3.0 24v build
After further research it's actually an Irmscher supplied 26mm and only came on the very late '97 and '98 mk3 GSi. Been looking and will hopefully have one sorted soon.Comment
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Filler neck fitted, took some wrestling but I won.
Then decided to see what the resin adaptor for the aero filler cap would fit like. Requires a fettle here and there and will need bonding on to the quarter panel and filler neck so I’ve taken the decision to leave it to the bodyshop to fit as it’ll save me messing it up.
Last for this evenings updates is the rear beam is on, yippee. The Powerflex bushes were a stupidly tight fit as I expected they would be so it took copper grease and lots and lots of hammering to get it in there.
Darn tight rear beam bushes. Nearside bush
Offside bush
Last edited by Harvey; 27-09-2017, 02:06 PM.Comment
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