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Roger yes very happy so far with the camera but I will reserve judgement till I test it on a dirt surface with the engine screaming and the car moving around. If it turns out as good as it seems so far I'll do a writeup as it is about half the cost of a GoPro with more features and true 1080p.
The only downside I can see is the camera may not be waterproof but you can replace it as it is a split camera and DVR unit not all in one like the GoPro.
Good stuff Ant, that mount looks simple but ideal, I used a exhaust clamp and an old tripod mount thread and boss for mine on the rear diagonal brace bar and it does the job but a bit industrial so I'm looking to get a mount like your's
Did I miss you saying what "make" of camera it is you bought ?
Cheap compared to GoPro and comes with everything all in one, plus it has an external mike (socket) so in theory can focus the sound based on where you place the mike. I had thought about a unit with remote camera so you could place it anywhere on the car but very few of those types cheap! And anyway the same can be achieved for in fill action clips with one of the £10 spy cameras (keyfob or lapel clip type).
The sound on yours is good does it have internal and external mike and will it record while being powered from the charge lead?
Looking forwards to some real "action" footage from yours ... in fact as you turned into your gateway I thought you were off into the forrest stage for a real test {until that red car appeared!} lol
Thats great, the guy doing that review is really good and it was based on his review I bought mine (his house must be full of gadgets!! {but then again who am I to set an example!})
But I really like the features of yours with it being a bullet camera (allows some funky filming opportunities "think under bonnet filming") and the remote start stop button is a god-send, while the loud beep on mine is good I do have to sometimes pop the hatch and check the screen to confirm what mode its in (well until I get more used to - or confident of what I've pressed or I may just put a small mirror to show me the back when facing forward "if you know what I mean") but I still have to swing around to switch on in advance :-( .
I'm sure I may have seen that one of yours when looking around but not at a gadget price lol
Screw thread
Per ISO 1222:2010,[1] the current tripod screw thread standard for attaching the camera calls for a 1/4-20 UNC[2] or 3/8-16 UNC thread.[3] Most consumer cameras are fitted with 1/4-20 UNC threads. Larger, professional cameras and lenses may be fitted with 3/8-16 UNC threads, plus a removable 1/4-20 UNC adapter, allowing them to be mounted on a tripod using either standard.
Historically, the thread standard for attaching older cameras to tripods was 1/4-20 BSW[4] for smaller cameras or 3/8-16 BSW[5] for larger cameras and pan/tilt heads. In this application the BSW and UNC thread profiles are similar enough that one can mount a modern camera on a legacy tripod and vice versa.
Ok people may know this but I didn't... I just went to do a quick job and spin on a filter to run my Z20LET oil pump on my engine without all the remote filter and cooler. The Z154 which is listed didnt fit the tread and I had a Z145A which is on my Mocal Remote filter fitted the thread but wouldn't fit directly onto the Oil Pump (to big in diameter) without the takeoff block etc the STD car must have.
So... Z20LET Oil Filter listing is Z154 but this is because they use a sandwich plate. The actual size in the pump is 3/4-16-UNF-2B (not M18-x1.5-6H as in the Z154).
To screw an oil filter directly onto the LET pump using a straight 3/4-16 inch spigot you need to use a Z632 (or alternatively a Z418 which is 3mm longer body).
Life is getting in the way of doing anything these days but I am sick of looking at stuff either broken or "never to be used" piles of parts. One of those parts is my old 8v rally engine. After the last rebuild it has done very little kms before put on a stand and now in the way. The other day looking for something I came accross a spare XE head and I think I have more than enough bits to do a 8v to 16v conversion giving me a spare 16v engine for the Opel.
Now I wouldn't bother normally and I can hear the rolling of eyes in responce to suggesting such a thing but the 8v engine has forged pistons and knife edged balanced bottom end, was 10.8:1 compression with a 2000psi race clutch on a light flywheel.
Also in the boxes I have a SBD steel geared oil pump, light pulley and a few other bits. So concidering all this I guess it makes more sense to do it than to not.
I did a bit of googling and people say it's easyish... saying that I couldn't find a build. Anyone done this or witnessed such an abomination!
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