ARP rod bolt question

[4doorvalver]

Im getting some arp rod bolts,what i want to know is...can i change them in place without taking the head of and removing the piston's etc,i cant remember if the original ones are stud's attached to the con rod that will need removing??

And while im here,whats the best sump gasket to get?ive heard a lot of people saying 2litre 8 valve and baffle plate is the best to get??

many spanks for any help i get

[n1cossie]

Re: ARP rod bolt question

no you can change the rod bolts in situ,there bolts not studs.
as for the sump gasket you want the one with the rubber attatched to the baffle plate but i cant remember what its from.

[4doorvalver]

Re: ARP rod bolt question

Cheers pal,i thought you could change them in situ but wasnt 100% sure.

[micky taylor]

Re: ARP rod bolt question

c20ne or seh enigine, just tell um its an 8valve sump gasket you want

[Harvey]

Re: ARP rod bolt question

It's this baffle you want.

[4doorvalver]

Re: ARP rod bolt question

Cheers Harvey I shall get onto vauxhall tomorrow and get the bad boy ordered up.

[DarrenH]

Re: ARP rod bolt question

obligatory note about using a thinner 8valve sump gasket....

youll need to cut the sump bolts that go into blind holes in the block, to stop them bottoming out (thinner gasket, bolts will go in further)

also using thinner gasket means the windage tray is closer to the crank, with the ARP rod bolts one of them will hit one of the crank scrapers up near the crank sensor trigger wheel. crank scraper being the D shape cutouts in the windage tray.

dont forget you need to countersink the con rod caps bolt holes for ARP bolts, to make clearance for the radius under the ARP bolt heads.

since the rod caps will be off, perfect time to inspect the big end journals and bearings for wear.

[Harvey]

Re: ARP rod bolt question

Sorry I forgot to say you have to space the original C20XE/LET sump bolts out by 2mm using M5 washers, thanks for the reminder Darren This is because the 8v baffle with bonded rubber is thinner than the 16v baffle and 2x cork gasket setup and a few of the bolt can bottom out if not spaced meaning that the sump isn't correctly tightened. There is more info on the con rod countersink on the SBD website here. What Darren is saying about the baffle clearances is that once you have fitted the rod bolts hold the 8v baffle in place and get someone to turn the engine by hand so you can check the deeper head on the APR bolts clears the baffle scrapers, if it catches just bend them slightly using an adjustable spanner or pliers.