Astra mk3 Arctic 1.6 8v to 3.0 24v build

[Harvey]

While having a look around the mk3 I noticed the F28 gearbox fill level plug had damp around it, nothing bad but it shouldn’t be there. The plugs don’t have any sealer or washers and just done up darn tight to 50Nm. I cleaned it up using brake cleaner and even with the car unused the oil dampness came back and yet it’s not over filled. Action plan to resolve the issue, fit an M18 copper crush washer so that’s what I did and that’s resolved it. Pictured from the underside looking up, lovely and dry so I’ll class that as a win.

[G.TERI.E]

Awesome work on the hybrid digi dash.... love it

[Harvey]

After fitting the LCD dash I noted the oil pressure gauge wasn’t right as it should display empty until the car is started & was showing full. I traced this to the sensor which has two feeds, one for the oil pressure warning light (plug socket) and one for the oil pressure gauge (threaded stud). Both feeds should give continuity to ground when the engine isn’t running but the stud was open circuit at the sensor and thus faulty. The new replacement arrived yesterday.



Slightly different to the OE sensor but still does exactly the same job.



My 5 minute sensor swap turned into an hours job as the oil warning light feed plug wasn’t long enough & needed extending by 15mm. So out came the cutters and plug disassembly tools.



I then cut the original wire off and soldered a new longer one on using the correct wire colour blue/green & the job was done.





LCD oil pressure gauge (top) now reading correctly with the ignition on & engine not running i.e. no oil pressure.

[Harvey]

Next was to cut the rear lower warning light panels & solder upper mk2 to the lower mk3.









I made an adaptor loom so I could plug the new hybrid dash into the existing mk3 dash plugs without having to cut anything. I added two extra pins into the existing mk3 dash plugs using spare locations for the oil pressure gauge (blue/yellow) & lights on (grey/green) so the dimmer works correctly with the LCD backlight. Speedo feed (blue/red) comes from the Vectra ABS I installed when the V6 went in.



I bought an A3 size sheet of grey tinted polycarbonate so I could make my own front.



The dash front & polycarb were drilled around the edge using a 1.5mm bit with the odometer reset plunger hole drilled at an angle using a 7.5mm bit.



Here you can see the tint comparison, mk2 LCD original on the left, my grey tinted polycarb creation & stock clear mk3 on the right.



The grey tint polycarb is attached using the metal inner from garden twine & twisted to hold it in place. I did heat the polycarb in an attempt to add a curve but it only added a slight curve being enough to get the shape I wanted.



To stop dust ingress the edges were covered with insulation tape & being cut slightly oversize meant the tape isn’t seen when installed in the car.



This is the lower warning light circuit finished & taped for protection. I’ve made the whole dash so it can be fully disassembled should there be any issues with LCD panels or the rear circuit board require placement.



The original dash looked like this, dull, boring & standard.



My new hybrid creation pictured with & without flash for better clarity. I know it won’t be to everyone’s taste but the wife & I love it as it’s added that little extra uniqueness to an otherwise stockish interior. I’ve duplicated the battery & oil pressure warning lights by design so they appear as they should on both the LCD panel (top left) & mk3 lower warning light section. There’s not excuse you didn’t see them if the worse should happen that’s for sure.

[Harvey]

Rewind to November 2015 in this diary and you’ll have noted I started a project but never finished it which isn’t at all like me. I’ll recap to save you trawling through my old posts.

I have a few spare Astra mk2 LCD dashes and decided I’d make a properly converted hybrid version that fits and plugs straight into the mk3.

I started with adapting the odometer so it could have the trip reset in the centre as the mk2 is offset. This was easy as a longer bar was added from a donor mk3 dash with plunger moved accordingly.



I then stripped both dashes to be left with this.



The rear was cut from both so they could overlay.





That’s as far as I got in 2015 and it’s just been sat on my shelf collecting dust until a couple of weeks ago, this is when the fun stuff began so if you’re still with me read on.

The dash fronts had previously been cut like this to give maximum visibility of the full LCD panels.



Next was to glue it all together to make a single unit.



The front panel was then masked to protect the bits I didn’t want painting and primed.





The final coat painted using the only matt black I had black VHT exhaust paint. Original mk3 front for comparison, it looks good even if I do say so myself.



Added the LCD panels to the front facia & rear covers which look like this.



Sorting wiring so I could use the correct colours. Donated from an old Vectra B V6 main harness loom.

[Harvey]

Having been warned about possible rust gremlins I double checked the front underneath of the nearside strut after removing the arch liner as I had previously only peeled it back a little to check with a torch. I’m pleased to say all is solid as a rock under there which is what I expected but it’s pleasing to have it confirmed after a good old prod and poke, thanks for the warning guys.

[Harvey]

We don't name our cars unless they're misbehaving then they get called all sorts!

We're doing fine thanks Laurie, plodding through these strange times patiently waiting so we can enjoy the cars again

[easytrans]

Nice to see what you're doing with "Doug the MK3" LOL well that's how I read it he he he ......

Hope you and M'anda are keeping well and safe?

L.

[Harvey]

Dug the mk3 from its slumber under the car cover and changed the brake fluid as it’s been just over four years since it was last done, shame on me.



Bit of a disaster as my Eezibleed decided the reservoir cap seal would wee fluid while I was bleeding the rear brakes. The fluid reacted with the nice satin black rattle can finish on the servo so my work on the mk3 was slightly extended.







All sorted now with a fresh lick of paint for the servo and brakes bled using a different reservoir cap seal.





Next was to sort the surface rust I spotted in February on the front of the front nearside strut. Cleaned it up and popped some Kurust on as it wasn’t at all bad. It went black as it should so I knew it had done the job intended.



The following day I used a cotton bud and touched up the area to make it look a little neater. You can’t see it with the bits and pieces in the way around that area but at least I know it’s now sorted.



Last but not least was to investigate the slow front passenger electric window which turned out to need fresh lithium grease on the mechanism, a slight realignment of the door inner skin slider and a smear of silicon grease on the top of the window seal which had worn through the nice felt finish down to rubber.



Rather enjoyed my (frustrating brake bleeding) time working on the mk3. It’s only covered 271 miles since this time last year so let’s just hope we get to drive it again soon.

[mick g]

PD Gough, artists Harvey

[Harvey]

I’ve now stripped the paint from the tailpipes using a brass brush drill attachment then refitted the rear box to check bumper clearances.



Please to say everything is perfect and the rear box is much easier to fit without the tailpipes.



Looks a bit weird without them fitted and I’m sure it would melt everything so I’ll use a splosh of Loctite when doing the final fit.

[Harvey]

Broke the mk3 out of Winter hibernation early January, it fired up with no dramas before going back to bed until Summer. I did however notice some very minor surface rust appearing to the front of the front nearside strut to inner arch join so I’ll get that sorted sharpish as it’s the only rust on the whole vehicle.





The painted exhaust tips worked for a while but alas, they have now seen better days so the rear box got removed last weekend.





The tips are now fully removable as of today thanks to PD Gough – exhaust manufactures who made the system for the mk3 5 years ago, how time flies!





Have no fear people as I have a cunning plan underway after having a chat with B & B Precision at Race Retro last Saturday. I’ll update soon…

[DarrenH]

we're getting old and want something a little more comfy on the ear drums.

not old, just old.er

[Harvey]

Not updated this diary for a while but unfortunately I?ve got nothing exciting to report. Attended VBOA at Sywell with both of the wife's cars (Vectra VXR Estate now sold) and the Astra passed its MOT last month having covered just over 500 miles for the year. I've only driven the mk3 to the MOT and back this year but it was an enjoyable couple of miles. Plans are underway to tone down the exhaust as it's too loud and drones, we're getting old and want something a little more comfy on the ear drums. I also plan on digging out my mk2/mk3 LCD hybrid dash conversion and making progress as it's been on the back burner for way too long.

[Harvey]

Yes you are correct Darren as around the 2,800rpm mark is where the vac operated intake flaps open and route the incoming air flows changes from the long route (going optimum low down torque) to the short route (giving high end torque). As the intake on the mk3 is so clean the flaps open very smoothly and you don't even notice it meaning the torque just keeps pulling you along. The best mod was the lighter flywheel as it drives just like a 4-pot and you can zip through the gears enthusiastically instead of lathargically which is what happens with the stock 15kg flywheel.