strip down and re-build number 2

[_SBD16v]

As many of you will know i built my astra from a bare shell and finished it the start of this year but i am now pulling it apart and starting again,

some of you may be thinking what for mad man but i have very good reason anyone thats built a car from scratch before will know its not till you have had the car on the road for a while you start finding things you just do not like, and things you should have done a different way.

so i have decided to pull it apart and start again with the good ideas from last time and remove the bad ideas and try to correct them with better ones lol .

so here are my first pics of pulling the car apart

engine out


inside has been looking a little sorry for a while now but it is all coming out
pic of the bottle mounting as i was asked about it a little while ago

[_SBD16v]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

here is some pics for oddball or anyone else that might have any ideas what has been done here

i brought the car preped for rally use but and belive these are stronger mounting but any idea on why


this is the lower arm bolts you can bolt them from inside the car ???


and this is my front gearbox engine mount ??


thanks for looking i will update as it gets more stripped and as it starts coming together

[Brett]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

got a pick of the wishbone mounts from under the car Rob? are they the standard mounts?

we welded the drivers side on the yellow shell there last night as I found some corrosion....

[_SBD16v]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

my wishbones are just like normal ones but instead of a bolt going up into a fixed nut in the chassis of the car mine goes throu the floor and you use a nut and bolt

[richie00boy]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

Maybe the wishbone mount like that is to enable you to use nylock nuts?

Scary amount of rust (albeit only surface) for a 1 year old car

[_SBD16v]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

Maybe the wishbone mount like that is to enable you to use nylock nuts?

Scary amount of rust (albeit only surface) for a 1 year old car

when i say surface i mean you can wipe most of it away with a rag but in the seams you cannot and thats going to be the problems its never been done properly so not its time to get it done so it lasts

[DarrenH]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

yeah just looks like reinforced rear mount. triangulated and boxed in. only ever seen that with nylon or rose jointed rear mounts though.

that exact spot usually bubbles up with rust for some reason. nearly all gte's ive seen bare shell have rust there. did you do the stich welding round the seems further up ?

[_SBD16v]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

yeah just looks like reinforced rear mount. triangulated and boxed in. only ever seen that with nylon or rose jointed rear mounts though.

that exact spot usually bubbles up with rust for some reason. nearly all gte's ive seen bare shell have rust there. did you do the stich welding round the seems further up ?

i did not do any of the stitch welding i brought the shell prepared but its had nearly every seam done including rear aches underside of the car it had every hole filled with a little metal plug then welded in

[DarrenH]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

what about the gearbox mount ? so it still slung under the chassis rail but you have 2 long studs right through the rail ?

[_SBD16v]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

what about the gearbox mount ? so it still slung under the chassis rail but you have 2 long studs right through the rail ?

well its had a hole cut in the chassis rail then a piece of box inserted thats solid and got two holes in it you just drop a bolt in and put a nut undernetiht the mount if you see what i mean

[DarrenH]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

proper job, i like that.

[richie00boy]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

Yeah I hate it when the paint prep hasn't been done properly and rust comes through dead quick. I can recommend No 1 Rust Beater (brush or spray) as a primer then overcoat with normal booth sprays, or if you are doing it yourself and can spare the paint taking 48 hours to harden properly, RePaint Coach Enamel. Don't use Smoothrite/Hammerite if you ever want to paint the car in a booth again as it is silicone based.

[_SBD16v]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

proper job, i like that.

i have charged the camera now so i will not be rushing the pics i will clean up all the mounts and take some good pics tomorrow you will then be able to see exactaly how there done

[_SBD16v]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

Don't use Smoothrite/Hammerite if you ever want to paint the car in a booth again as it is silicone based.

thats how i was going to do the inside of the car but after about a ft sq i just thought wow that looks shite

[richie00boy]

Re: strip down and re-build number 2

RePaint Coach Enamel I recommended is available from Halfords and similar in finish - maybe a bit tougher - to Smoothrite, but it is a 'safe' compatible product. Only downside is it takes longer to dry. It can be sprayed in an electric sprayer or similar if thinned.